Before calling a technician, 7 minutes of self-diagnosis fixes about 30% of “won't open” calls. Here's the exact order we walk DFW customers through on the phone — with the fix for each likely cause.
1. Check the Power
Look at the LED indicator on the opener motor. No light = no power. Walk to the breaker box and check the garage circuit. After a power outage, the GFCI outlet your opener plugs into can trip — push the reset button on the outlet itself, not just the breaker.
2. Test the Wall Button vs. the Remote
If the wall button works but the remote doesn't, the issue is the remote (dead battery or out of pairing). If neither works, it's the opener or sensors.
3. Replace the Remote Battery
Cheap, fast, often the answer. Most garage door remotes use a CR2032 or similar coin cell. If you have two remotes, swap batteries between them to confirm which is dead.
4. Check the Photo-Eye Sensors
Two small sensors near the floor on each side of the door. Both indicator lights should be steady (usually one green, one red or amber). If either is off or blinking:
- Wipe dust off both lenses with a soft cloth (this fixes about 25% of “won't close” calls in DFW — our dust is brutal)
- Check alignment: both sensors should “see” each other
- Look for spider webs or insect debris blocking the beam
5. Listen to the Opener Motor
The sound tells you what failed:
| What you hear | Likely cause | Typical fix |
|---|---|---|
| Motor hums but door doesn't move | Capacitor or gear failure | $120–$260 |
| Motor clicks but does nothing | Logic board or limit switch | $120–$260 |
| Runs and stops short | Travel-limit settings off | $90 adjustment |
| No sound at all | Power issue (back to step 1) | DIY |
6. Check the Manual Release
If the manual release cord (red handle) has been pulled — sometimes accidentally — the door is in manual mode. Pull the cord down and back to re-engage the trolley, then run the opener.
7. Look for Visible Damage
- Snapped spring (visible gap in the coil above the door)?
- Frayed or hanging cable?
- Door crooked at rest?
Any of these = stop, call now. Don't force the door. See why spring issues are never DIY.
8. Test the Door Balance
Disengage the opener and try to lift the door by hand. If it won't budge or feels twice as heavy as normal, a spring has broken — even if the break isn't visible. Call.
When It's an Emergency
Call immediately, day or night, for:
- Spring snapped (you heard a loud bang)
- Cable hanging or broken
- Door crooked or stuck partway open
- Car trapped inside or outside
We answer emergency calls 24/7 across DFW. The fix is usually under $500; the cost of waiting (vehicle damage, missed work, breaking into your own house) is almost always more. For typical pricing, see our cost guide.
The DFW Pattern
We see “won't open” call volume spike after:
- Spring and summer hail storms (debris in tracks, sensor knocks)
- Power outages (capacitor failures from voltage spikes)
- January cold snaps (springs more brittle, cables strain)
- Returns from vacation (spider webs and bug nests in sensors)
A quick walk through this checklist before calling can save you the $39–$99 trip charge if the fix turns out to be DIY-able.
The Steward Approach
If after these 8 checks you're still stuck, our trip charge is waived on appointments booked online. We diagnose first, quote in writing, and only repair with your approval. While the tech is on-site, we'll also run the safety check as a free add-on.